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The Thread

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Flora Shedden’s fig & fennel loaf

Courtesy of baker and author Flora Shedden, this naturally sweet bread was born to be topped with a generous hunk of brie or Chaource cheese.

You’ll need:
90g (3 oz/2/3 cup) dried figs, chopped
15g (1 tbsp) fennel seeds
100ml (3½ oz/scant ½ cup) water to soak the figs and fennel
260 g (9 oz/2¼ cups) strong white bread flour
10g (2 tsp) salt
80g (2½ oz) homemade active starter. If you don’t have an active starter, use 35g (11/4 oz/generous 1/4 cup) flour, 36g (11/4 oz/2 tbsp plus 1 tsp) water and 1/2 tsp instant yeast in its place
60ml (2 oz/¼ cup) boiling water
Fine semolina for dusting

Method:

1.
The night before you plan to make your bread, it is important to soak the fruit to soften the figs and prevent them from burning or drying out when baked. Weigh out the chopped figs in a bowl and add the fennel seeds. Cover with 100ml of water before sealing the bowl with cling film and leaving to soak overnight, or for at least six hours.

2.
The next day, combine the soaked ingredients, including any remaining water, with the rest of the flour, salt, active starter, or starter alternative, in a large bowl and knead together until just combined. Scrape any excess dough off your hands and place back into the bowl. Tip the dough onto a lightly oiled work surface, scraping out any excess to leave a clean bowl (you will need this later).

3.
Use the heel of your hand to push the dough away from you and into the work surface. Pull back to form a rough ball and repeat this stretching and tearing technique to build up the gluten. You want to do this for roughly 10 minutes, until the dough becomes stronger and has a smooth and elastic consistency. The best way to test if your dough is ready is to perform the windowpane test. Take a small amount of dough and stretch out using both hands. You are looking to form a thin film of dough that light can shine through. If the dough breaks early on or forms a hole easily, the gluten hasn’t been developed enough and the dough requires another bout of stretching and tearing. Once the dough passes the windowpane test, it’s ready to prove.

4.
Lightly oil the bowl from earlier and place the dough inside. Cover with cling film and set aside in a warm environment for two to four hours, or until noticeably grown. During this period, you can fold the dough. Folding the dough is the best way to build up even more gluten and helps to incorporate air during the bulk prove. It also improves the height of the loaf when it comes to baking. To fold the dough, grab the edge of the dough furthest from you and pull up, stretching it, before folding over to meet the edge of the dough nearest to you. Rotate the bowl 90 degrees and repeat the same process. Do this twice more so that you have folded the dough four times in total. Finally, flip the dough so the seams are at the bottom. I tend to repeat this technique two to three times during the prove, but encourage you not too fret too much about forgetting or doing more or less. It should be fun, not regimental. The dough is proved when it is nearly double the size.

5.
Tip back onto your work surface, again lightly oiled to prevent the dough from sticking. Shape the dough into a tight ball. The easiest way to do this is to cup both hands then use them to tuck both sides of the dough underneath until your pinkies meet. Rotate the dough 90 degrees and repeat until you have a tight ball. Allow to rest for 10 minutes. This relaxes the dough and makes it easier to form.

6.
For your final shape, lightly flour the top of your rounded dough, then tip over so it is seam-side up. Flatten the dough to form a rough square. Fold the top right corner into the middle, followed by the top left corner. Continue to fold the sides in on themselves, alternating left and right. You should end up with a rough rectangle. Using your thumbs, fold the top of the dough over itself, pressing with your thumbs to secure it. Repeat this action again, using your thumbs to secure the dough, until you end up with a tight oval shape, seam-side down. Lightly flour the top and place seam side-up into a lined banneton (proving basket). Allow to prove at room temperature for a further 2 hours before placing in the refrigerator overnight.

7.
About 30 minutes before baking, remove the dough from the refrigerator to recover. Preheat your oven to 230ºC/445ºF/Gas 9. Place a baking stone or cast-iron casserole dish (Dutch oven) in the oven to preheat also. Once the oven has come to temperature and the dough has been allowed to warm up for 30 minutes, you are ready to bake. Dust the seam side of your dough with semolina. Carefully remove the hot stone or pan from the oven and gently tip the dough onto the hot surface and, working fast, score down the middle of the loaf at a 45-degree angle using a serrated knife. If using a cast iron casserole dish, place the lid back on top and slide into the oven. Bake for 25 minutes before removing the lid and baking for a further five to ten minutes, until dark in colour and hollow sounding when tapped. If using a baking stone, return to the oven quickly and chuck a handful of ice cubes onto the base of the oven to create steam. Close the door quickly to stop any steam escaping. Bake for 25 minutes before opening the door and turning the loaf for an even colour, if required. Bake for a further 5–10 minutes until dark in colour and hollow sounding when tapped. Allow to cool completely before slicing and serving.

Flora is the owner of ARAN Bakery, an artisan bakery in Dunkeld, Scotland. She is also the author of two cookbooks: “Gatherings” and “ARAN”.