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The Thread

Find stories to inspire you, ideas from people we admire and our expertise for a home well curated, a wardrobe well put together, a life well lived.

Power play

Mixed proportions. Simple swaps. Balancing smart and casual. Fashion journalist Lisa Armstrong decodes dressing for the new season. The result? Interesting outfits that don’t look too contrived.

Who doesn’t love spring? The freedom that comes with longer days and sunshine deserves celebrating. Time for some fresh sartorial ideas. That doesn’t necessarily mean a radical overhaul. Trends are not how fashion works these days, and definitely not the way personal style operates. So long, must-buys. I find it more helpful to zero in on the tweaks that make old favourites look on point.

Playing with proportions shouldn’t be intimidating, and it can transform your look. Don’t overthink it. Just aim for balance: slim on top, more voluminous below, or vice versa. Remember the contrast – it’s key. An outfit that’s skinny head to toe looks dated. One that’s oversized the whole way down is unflattering. Always prioritise what suits you over the latest thing. Indent your narrowest point and ensure your outfit cinches you there. A belted, lacy shirt dress – part utility but at the same time pretty – is a case in point and possibly your most versatile dress choice this year. Style it with flatforms or strappy sandals, unbuttoned low, or worn under a tank or with a jacket…

Those in-between pieces we often overlook can make or break an outfit. A luxurious-feeling, lightweight, button-through knit, or shorter cotton shirt, add a youthful softness to a tailored trouser suit. Loafers take it to work. Trainers will always be a great weekend flex, but opt for elevated styles with monochrome or colour flashes. Matching them with your trousers creates a longer, sophisticated silhouette.

Swapping flats for flatforms can make all the difference to a pair of floppy, wide-legged trousers. Heels, a crisp, cropped shirt or tailored blazer will glam up cargo pants. Suddenly that casual daytime look works for evening or the office. Versatility is the name of the game. Play with what you’ve got, then work out the gaps.

Style in 2024 is about so much more than looking ‘smart’. Not that looking polished isn’t part of it, but hitting the perfect equilibrium between dressed-up and effortless glow-up is what really counts. Comfortable cuts, drapey fabrics, fuzzy boucles or swoon-worthy silks create understated contrasts. Result: interesting looks that don’t look over-contrived.

A raffia clutch, pleat fronts on your trousers or a crescent-shaped cross-body bag are all small updates that can help create the desired light-touch sleekness. And don’t forget stripes, which always bring a note of playfulness that knocks 10 years off your style age.

You’ll want anything you buy to still be adding something to your style next year and beyond. It’s all about how you wear it. This year with minimalist sculptured metal jewellery. Next year, who knows? Push up long sleeves to show off wrists. Layer a light knitted tank over a white shirt to add definition (and warmth), or a striped tee under an unbuttoned shirt. Flick back the cuffs. Belt a big scarf over last year’s spring coat to give it a fresh spin, or let it beef up a blazer.

Combining black and white – an old favourite – is back on the cards but keep it slick and the right side of stark by wearing white close to your face. If you like the idea of a black blazer with cream trousers, wear a cream tee or vest underneath to reflect light upwards and opt for a V-neck to show a bit more skin and create a longer neckline. Make ease and tailoring a priority and you’ll feel the benefits way beyond this season.

Lisa Armstrong is Head of Fashion at “The Telegraph”.

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