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The Thread

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In praise of picnics

Is it even summer if we haven’t enjoyed a glorious afternoon (or few) with a hamper of treats, seeking out the best spot to lay down our blanket? Some of our favorite foodies share their joy of picnicking.

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Ravinder Bhogal

Author, journalist and chef patron of Jikoni restaurant in Marylebone, London. Her latest book, Comfort & Joy, is out now.

“I fondly remember the picnics of my childhood in Nairobi, my mother’s abundant Indian-inflected banquets that always ended with Victoria sponge to be eaten under a colossal, ever-blue sky. They were giddy adventures straight out of an Enid Blyton book. Picnics are quaint and reassuringly impractical. They inspire nostalgia and romance. We shed our shoes and inhibitions and connect, barefoot, to our half-wild parts. The gentle distraction of a feast – or even just a sandwich shared with a loved one in the great outdoors – is a tonic.

To unfurl a picnic blanket and eat in a pool of supernaturally beautiful, dappled light is a blessing. To stretch out against ancient trees that have stood fast in the face of storms, pests and blight is life-affirming. It’s a moment to press pause on, to flutter in, in gratitude, before the sun recedes into fall and life passes us by again.”

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Alexandra Dudley

Food writer and broadcaster based in London. She is the recipe columnist for Sheerluxe and the host of the podcast Come For Supper.

“There’s a feeling, almost a smell in the air with the arrival of summer. Something changes, and suddenly she’s there. With summer comes the promise of picnics. Picnics on the beach, picnics at the park, even picnics in the car: I love everything about picnics. I love the squashed sandwiches and the slightly damp, grass-stained bottoms and the special kind of joy that comes in finding the perfect spot under a tree to potter around and make home for a few hours.

Somehow, even the most modest of foods seem more exciting at a picnic – there is just something about it. A hard-boiled egg eaten at the table with knife and fork in tow seems – quite frankly – dull. But take that hard-boiled egg outside, lay down a rug, and peel away the shell before dipping it into a jar filled with mayonnaise or celery salt… and it is instantly fabulous.”

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James Rich

Author of Apple: Recipes From The Orchard. He grew up on a cider farm in Somerset, UK and now divides his time between London and the West Country.

“There’s a corner of our orchard, back by the old stone wall, underneath an ancient walnut tree, that the afternoon sun hits just right. The dappled golden light dances off the buttercups and cow parsley, warming the rug we carry down there on our favorite days of the year. These are those long afternoons which stretch out like our legs on the blanket, a basket between us to stop our dogs getting the food. Baguettes torn by hand to dip into smashed pea and mint, homemade hummus flecked with herbs, runny cheese with a spiced mango salsa.

Apple juice, pressed from the previous year’s crop, sharpened with lemon and a dash of elderflower. Strawberries smudged with black pepper and lavender, chocolate brownies studded with rosemary and raspberries. The dogs roll onto their sides, dozing, as the last of the feast is devoured. The taste of a perfect summer.”

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Frances Quinn

Baker and creator of BakingPlaylist.com – bringing baking and music together.

“Whether it’s for a birthday or a spontaneous get-together, any picnic normally involves sandwiches and cake – which is why I love to serve my signature Giant Sandwich Cake. Baked in a slice-of-bread-shape mould (or simply in a standard loaf tin), this cake is filled with buttercream and jam to make it look like an actual jam sandwich.

It was the very first bake I created on The Great British Bake-Off and now I’ve created variations, including a marmalade-filled version good enough for Paddington Bear. Whether cut into triangles or left for people to cut slices from at the picnic itself, there’s a real delight in sharing a sandwich cake, especially if it’s enjoyed with flasks of tea or glasses of fizz – or both!”

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Emily Scott

Chef, restaurateur and author. Her books Sea & Shore and Time & Tide are out now.

“High summer in Cornwall and all the love for seaside picnics. This time of year to me brings so much color, warmth and many beautiful ingredients to choose from. Pack a picnic and escape to a romantic cliff top overlooking the ocean, or to one of my favorite beaches for wild swims and vitamin sea. Strawberries, raspberries, peaches, apricots, nectarines, zucchinis, crab and lobster among the finest. Wonderful fragrant herbs: tarragon, basil and chervil. Watercress, arugula and the prettiest edible flowers. Cordial made from the elderflowers picked in May found in hedgerows by the sea.

Mallow flowers add color to salads and, in late summer, blackberries are in plentiful supply. Grilled artichokes, fennel, salads and mackerel couscous all travel well; plump cherries and luscious peaches are so delicious. Essentials include a favorite basket, blanket, enamelware and tumblers. A perfect picnic is dressing the set home from home. A call to the coast.”

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